Efficacy of an Agonist of α-MSH, the Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-20, in Hair Pigmentation

The study from October 2018 investigated the efficacy of a biomimetic peptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-20 (PTP20), as an agonist of α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH) to combat hair greying. The in vitro and ex vivo studies showed that PTP20 could enhance catalase expression and reduce hydrogen peroxide levels by 30%, which are factors associated with hair greying. Additionally, PTP20 activated melanogenesis, increasing melanin production and the expression of melanocortin receptor-1 (MC1-R), tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TRP-1), and Melan-A, while decreasing agouti signaling protein (ASIP) expression. A clinical study involving 15 male volunteers with premature canities demonstrated that daily application of a lotion containing 10 ppm of PTP20 over 3 months increased protein expression related to melanin production in plucked hairs. These findings suggest that PTP20 has the potential to preserve follicular melanocyte function and reduce hair greying, indicating its possible use in cosmetic applications for hair pigmentation.