Regulation of Epidermal Proliferation and Hair Follicle Cycling by Synthetic Photostable Retinoid EC23

    January 2023 in “ Journal of cosmetic dermatology
    Arto Määttå, Rebecca Nixon, Neil D.P. Robinson, Carrie A. Ambler, Kirsty Goncalves, Victoria Maltman, Stefan Przyborski
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    TLDR The synthetic retinoid EC23 thickens skin and promotes hair growth more effectively and with a lower dose than natural retinoids.
    The study examines the effects of the synthetic retinoid EC23 on epidermal proliferation and hair follicle cycling, comparing it to all-trans retinoic acid (ATRA). EC23 significantly increased keratinocyte proliferation, enhanced epidermal thickness, and reduced terminal differentiation markers more effectively than ATRA in both in vitro and in vivo models. Additionally, EC23 induced greater epidermal thickening and reduced skin surface lipids more effectively than ATRA, likely due to its enhanced stability and efficacy. Despite its potent effects, EC23 also disrupted the epidermal barrier more than ATRA, but these changes were reversible. The findings suggest that EC23 is a promising candidate for skin therapeutics due to its stability and prolonged biological activity.
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