High-Performance Liquid Chromatography–Diode Array and Electrospray-Mass Spectrometry Analysis of Non-Allowed Substances in Cosmetic Products for Preventing Hair Loss and Other Hormone-Dependent Skin Diseases

June 2008 in “ Journal of pharmaceutical and biomedical analysis ”

Daniela Orsi, Manuela Pellegrini, Simona Pichini, Donatella Mattioli, Emilia Marchei, Luigi Gagliardi

high-performance liquid chromatography HPLC ultraviolet diode array UV-DAD electrospray ionisation mass spectrometry ESI-MS minoxidil progesterone estrone spironolactone canrenone hydrocortisone triamcinolone acetonide reversed phase chromatography Rogaine

From the encyclopedia

Minoxidil →

An essential vasodilator with some anti-androgenic effects

Spironolactone →

powerful topical and oral anti-androgen used mostly by women

Hydrocortisone →

a synthetic cortisol used for anti-inflammatory effects

Studysummary This study developed a new HPLC method for detecting prohibited substances like minoxidil and hydrocortisone in cosmetic products, achieving high sensitivity and successful application to real-world samples. Our plain-language summary of this paper — not a Tressless recommendation.

In 2008, researchers developed a high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) method combined with ultraviolet diode array (UV-DAD) and electrospray ionisation mass spectrometry (ESI-MS) to detect prohibited substances in cosmetics aimed at preventing hair loss and other hormone-dependent skin conditions. The method was capable of identifying minoxidil, progesterone, estrone, spironolactone, canrenone, hydrocortisone, and triamcinolone acetonide. The substances were separated using reversed phase chromatography and detected with high linearity and recoveries over 90%. This technique was effectively used to analyze illegal additives in creams and lotions sold online, demonstrating its utility in regulatory enforcement.

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