High-Performance Liquid Chromatography–Diode Array and Electrospray-Mass Spectrometry Analysis of Non-Allowed Substances in Cosmetic Products for Preventing Hair Loss and Other Hormone-Dependent Skin Diseases

November 2008 in “ Journal of pharmaceutical and biomedical analysis ”

Daniela Orsi, Manuela Pellegrini, Simona Pichini, Donatella Mattioli, Emilia Marchei, Luigi Gagliardi

TLDR The method effectively identifies banned substances in hair loss and skin disease cosmetics.

In 2008, researchers developed a high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) method combined with ultraviolet diode array (UV-DAD) and electrospray ionisation mass spectrometry (ESI-MS) to detect prohibited substances in cosmetics aimed at preventing hair loss and other hormone-dependent skin conditions. The method was capable of identifying minoxidil, progesterone, estrone, spironolactone, canrenone, hydrocortisone, and triamcinolone acetonide. The substances were separated using reversed phase chromatography and detected with high linearity and recoveries over 90%. This technique was effectively used to analyze illegal additives in creams and lotions sold online, demonstrating its utility in regulatory enforcement.

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