Hair Pores Caused by Surfactants via the Cell Membrane Complex and a Prevention Strategy through the Use of Cuticle Sealing

    November 2023 in “ Cosmetics
    Sang-Hun Song, H K Park, Jae Heung Jeon, Seong Kil Son, Nam Lyong Kang
    TLDR Surfactants damage hair, but sealing the cuticle can prevent this.
    The study examines how surfactants cause structural damage to hair by forming internal pores through the cell membrane complex (CMC) and evaluates prevention strategies. Using optical microscopy and SEM, it was found that surfactants increase hair porosity, visible as black areas, which was not observed with water alone. The study involved 36 hair samples and tested three prevention methods: cuticle sealing with polymer oil, hydrophobic coating, and cationizing the hair surface. Cuticle sealing was the most effective, significantly reducing pore formation and cuticle lifting. Additionally, filling hair with amino acids like glycine reduced black areas and increased gloss, suggesting internal filling can mitigate surfactant damage.
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