The Molecular Mechanism of PCE-DP, a Novel Brightening Active Ingredient

PCE-DP (D-pantothenyl alcohol) was found to have brightening effects and promote hair growth by influencing several molecular mechanisms in the skin. In studies involving healthy Japanese participants, PCE-DP increased intracellular CoA and ATP concentrations in normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK), enhancing cell growth and epidermal turnover. It also decreased the mRNA expression of adrenomedullin, inhibiting melanin uptake, and reduced endothelin-1 mRNA induction, which is associated with melanin synthesis, after UVB irradiation. However, PCE-DP did not affect cell growth or melanin synthesis in melanocytes directly. These findings suggested that PCE-DP improved skin pigmentation by promoting epidermal turnover and inhibiting melanin uptake and inflammation, potentially through the activation of the tricarboxylic acid cycle.