TLDR Human hair has more unsaturated fats inside than on the surface, and certain lipids may help bind the outer and inner layers together.
The study investigated the distribution and structure of minor lipids in human hair, including the surface, the interface between cuticle and cortex, and the interior (cortex, medulla, and melanin granules). Using infrared spectroscopy and mass spectrometry techniques (FTIR, ToF-SIMS, GCMS, and ESI-MS), researchers found that unsaturated fatty acids were more prevalent in the cortex than on the hair surface. Steryl glycoside-like lipids containing N-acetylglucosamine were suggested to contribute to the adhesion between the cuticle and cortex. Oxidative metabolites from fatty acids such as linoleic and alpha-linolenic acids were discovered in the hair bulb and melanin granules, with those from alpha-linolenic acid being tightly bound to melanin granules and potentially involved in melanosome biosynthesis.
25 citations,
December 2011 in “Surface and interface analysis” Bleaching hair causes significant damage by breaking down proteins and fatty acids.
36 citations,
August 2011 in “Journal of dermatological science” Human hair has a protective lipid layer that can be damaged by moisture and treatments, affecting hair growth and health.
[object Object] 19 citations,
May 2010 in “Surface and interface analysis” 18-MEA is essential for hair's water resistance, and a conditioner with 18-MEA and SPDA can restore it.
23 citations,
May 2010 in “Surface and interface analysis” Chemical treatments and UV radiation severely damage the lipid layer on hair.
7 citations,
August 2006 in “Biopolymers” Researchers extracted tiny keratin filaments from human hair by unzipping its outer layer.
41 citations,
May 2005 in “International Journal of Cosmetic Science” Human hair contains various lipids that vary among individuals and help protect the hair.
[object Object] 42 citations,
January 2005 in “Applied spectroscopy” Hair from breast cancer patients shows changes in structure and composition, and a test using these changes detected cancer but also falsely identified some healthy samples as cancerous.
2 citations,
July 2023 in “Cosmetics” Surfactants in shampoos and conditioners remove some but not all lipids from hair, and more research is needed to understand their full impact.
10 citations,
November 2016 in “International Journal of Cosmetic Science” A tough membrane between the outer and inner layers of human hair protects it from damage.
[object Object] 8 citations,
March 2018 in “Cosmetics” UV radiation damages hair by creating holes and peeling cuticle layers.
39 citations,
April 2020 in “Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology” Asian hair is generally straight and thick, with unique disorders and properties, and more research is needed to understand it fully.
7 citations,
April 2018 in “Cosmetics” Lipids in Japanese hair help maintain glossiness and structure.