Repeatable Perming via Thiol–Michael Click Reaction: Using Amide Derived from Maleic Acid and Cystine

    January 2026 in “ Molecules
    Zezhi Liu, Ling Ma, Timson Chen, Zhizhen Li, Ya Chen, Yuan Li, K. W. Chang, Jing Wang
    TLDR A new perming method is less damaging to hair and works as well as traditional methods.
    This study introduces a novel thiol-Michael click perming molecule, N,N'-bis(maleoyl)-l-cystine (MA2-CySS), which enables repeatable perming without oxidative damage. The molecule was synthesized and shown to be non-cytotoxic up to 1000 μg/mL. The perming efficiency of MA2-CySS was comparable to traditional oxidative methods, achieving over 1300% efficiency across three cycles, while significantly reducing color change and cuticle damage. It also preserved hair keratin's secondary structure better, maintaining higher α-helix content and disulfide bond retention. This represents a significant advancement in perming technology, offering a less damaging alternative to conventional methods.
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