Reimagining Hair Science: A New Approach to Classify Curly Hair Phenotypes via New Quantitative Geometrical and Structural Mechanical Parameters

    April 2023
    Michelle Gaines, Imani Page, Nolan Miller, Benjamin R. Greenvall, Josh Medina, Duncan J. Irschick, Adeline Southard, Alexander E. Ribbe, Gregory M. Grason, Alfred J. Crosby
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    TLDR A new system for classifying curly hair types using precise measurements can improve hair care products and cultural inclusion.
    This research aims to develop a new classification system for curly and kinky/coily hair by identifying quantitative geometric and mechanical parameters that better represent these hair types. Traditional systems, like those by L’Oréal and Andre Walker, are limited and often qualitative. Using methods such as scanning electron microscopy, photogrammetry, optical microscopy, and mechanical testing with a texture analyzer and dynamic mechanical analyzer, the study measured geometric and mechanical properties of various hair samples. The findings will help in understanding the relationship between hair fiber morphology and mechanics, ultimately aiding in the development of more effective personal care products and promoting cultural inclusion.
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