Keratins and Lipids in Ethnic Hair

    January 2013 in “ International Journal of Cosmetic Science ”
    Célia F. Cruz, Margarida M. Fernandes, Andreia C. Gomes, Luísa Coderch, Meritxell Martı́, Sialia Karina Mellink-Méndez, Luı́s Gales, Nuno G. Azóia, Ulyana Shimanovich, Artur Cavaco‐Paulo
    TLDR African hair's keratin structure is influenced by its higher lipid content.
    The study examined the content and distribution of lipids in African, Asian, and Caucasian hair, focusing on how these lipids interact with keratin, the main structural protein in hair. It was found that African hair contained a higher percentage of internal lipids compared to other ethnic hair types. This higher lipid content influenced the structure of keratin, as evidenced by the absence of axial diffraction in X-ray analysis, which returned to normal after lipid removal. Molecular dynamics simulations showed that lipids intercalated with keratin dimers, altering their structure. The study concluded that the keratin structure in African hair might be influenced by its higher lipid concentration.
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