High Spatial Resolution Study of Human Skin Using Synchrotron Infrared Microscopy: Application to the Penetration of External Agents

    November 2004 in “ International Journal of Cosmetic Science ”
    N. Gross, Sylvie Marull, C. Fromageot, Marc Lebel, J.‐M. Baret, A. Barbier, J.M. Ortéga, P. Dumas
    TLDR External agents penetrate skin more easily in areas with fewer lipids, especially through hair follicles.
    The study utilized synchrotron-powered infrared microscopy to analyze human skin sections, achieving high spatial resolution to detail the biocomposition of skin layers. It identified highly organized lipids in the stratum corneum and generated biochemical images to locate lipids, proteins, and collagen. Using fuzzy C-means clustering, the study examined the penetration of cyanophenol and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, finding that penetration across the stratum corneum was favored in areas with lower lipid concentration. Both agents penetrated the epidermis without altering protein secondary structure, and hair follicles were identified as a favored penetration pathway.
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