Evaluation of a Combination of Botanical Extracts Designed to Protect Hair and Scalp from Air Pollutants: In Vitro and Clinical Studies

    September 2019 in “ Journal of Investigative Dermatology
    Agnès Perrin, C. Gondran, C. Coquet-Morel, E. Oger, Rongrong Zhao, Xiaolei Qu, K. Cucumel
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    TLDR Botanical extracts from peas and chia seeds improved scalp health and protected hair from pollution.
    In 2019, a study was conducted to evaluate the effects of a combination of botanical extracts from Pisum sativum and Salvia hispanica on hair and scalp health in relation to air pollution. The study used in vitro and ex vivo models, including cultures of keratinocytes from scalp skin, 3D spheres of human dermal papilla cells, and ex vivo scalp biopsies, which were exposed to PM2.5 or cigarette smoke. The results showed a decrease in CYP1A1 (AhR signaling), a reduced level of IL1R1 (receptor for interleukin-1), and an increased level of VEGFA. Two clinical studies were also conducted: a short-term study with a 5-hour application of the extracts on a smoke-stressed scalp, and a long-term study with a 42-day application of a hair serum containing the extracts on the scalps of 40 volunteers living in a large urban area. The short-term study showed decreased oxidative damage on the scalp, while the long-term study showed improvements in scalp oiliness, hydration, barrier function, and a decrease in irritation and flaking.
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