Advances in the Chemical Structure of the Hair Surface, Surface Forces and Interactions

March 2021

Gustavo S. Luengo, Andrew Greaves

hair surface cuticle scales hair fibers cosmetic treatments Scanning Probe techniques surface forces macroscopic surface properties

Studysummary This chapter provides an overview of the complex chemical and physical structure of the hair surface, detailing how factors like ethnicity, environmental stress, and cosmetic treatments can alter its properties and influence the adhesion of hair care products.

Our plain-language summary. Not medical advice or a treatment recommendation. Consult a qualified healthcare professional before changing treatment. Full disclaimer

The chapter discussed the importance of understanding the hair surface's chemical and physical properties, which are crucial for the adhesion of hair care products. It highlighted that hair fibers are not homogeneous due to factors like ethnic origin, environmental exposure, and cosmetic treatments. The hair surface is highly structured, with cuticle scales influencing interactions with other fibers, skin, and various molecules. Recent advances in measuring surface forces using Scanning Probe techniques on real hair and model surfaces were presented. The chapter concluded with a review of macroscopic surface properties and their impact on consumer sensory perception.

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Research cited in this study

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research Degradation of Hair Surface: Importance of 18-MEA and Epicuticle

25 citations , May 2019 in “Cosmetics”

This paper reviews the surface degradation of hair and describes how combining 18-MEA with specific surfactants can maintain hydrophobicity on bleached and weathered hair surfaces.

research Mechanism of Cuticle Hole Development in Human Hair Due to UV Radiation Exposure

8 citations , March 2018 in “Cosmetics”

In this study, researchers found that UV radiation causes hydroxy radicals to form cuticle holes specifically between the cuticle layers in wet hair, unlike random holes caused by Fenton's reaction.

research Distribution and Localization of Hydrophobic and Ionic Chemical Groups at the Surface of Bleached Human Hair Fibers

36 citations , October 2014 in “Langmuir”

This study concluded that bleach treatment partly transforms the hydrophobic top layer of human hair cuticles into a hydrophilic surface with clustered cysteic acid, visualized at the nano-scale using dynamic Chemical Force Microscopy.

research Alignment Control and Softness Creation in Hair with Glycylglycine

1 citations , May 2013 in “PubMed”

This study found that glycylglycine treatment improved hair softness by enhancing hair alignment and altering internal fiber properties among Japanese women with typically coarse hair.

research Investigation of the Damage on the Outermost Hair Surface Using ToF-SIMS and XPS

25 citations , December 2011 in “Surface and interface analysis”

This study reports that hair damage from bleaching is associated with the oxidative cleavage of fatty acid thioester bonds, detectable by measuring the decrease in mass spectrometry peak at m / z 76.

research Interactions Between Crossed Hair Fibers at the Nanoscale

28 citations , December 2010 in “Langmuir”

Hair fibers interact through classical forces, which are influenced by treatments and products, important for hair care and other applications.

research Chronological Aging of Human Hair Keratin Fibers

49 citations , April 2010 in “International Journal of Cosmetic Science”

This study details how very long human hair naturally ages, showing cuticle wear and internal fiber changes that may inform new hair care product designs.

research Charge Density Alterations in Human Hair Fibers: An Investigation Using Electrostatic Force Microscopy

13 citations , March 2006 in “International Journal of Cosmetic Science”

The study found that a polymer treatment changes the charge on hair surfaces, making bleached hair smoother and less porous.

research Wetting Behavior of Human Hair Fibers

52 citations , August 1978 in “Journal of Applied Polymer Science”

Human hair's ability to get wet is complex and can change with treatments, damage, and environment.