Degradation of Hair Surface: Importance of 18-MEA and Epicuticle

May 2019 in “ Cosmetics ”

Shinichi Tokunaga, Hiroto Tanamachi, Kazutaka Ishikawa

18-methyleicosanoic acid 18-MEA epicuticle cationic surfactants SPDA atomic force microscopy AFM angle-resolved X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy AR-XPS anteiso-branch moiety hydrophobicity surface friction hair alignment

TLDR 18-MEA and cationic surfactants can restore and maintain hair's hydrophobic nature, improving its beauty and feel.

The study highlighted the critical role of 18-methyleicosanoic acid (18-MEA) in maintaining hair's hydrophobicity and reducing friction, which are essential for hair's sensory properties. It involved hair samples from 97 female volunteers of different ethnicities. The removal of 18-MEA, often due to chemical treatments, led to increased hydrophilicity and friction, negatively impacting hair. However, regenerating the hydrophobic layer using 18-MEA could restore these properties. The study emphasized the importance of 18-MEA in hair care formulations and its role in protecting hair from chemical and environmental damage.

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