In this review of permanent hairstyles like perms, the authors discuss the chemical processes involved and highlight potential risks such as hair and scalp damage, emphasizing the need for careful client assessment and safe application techniques to mitigate these risks.
March 2026 in “Journal of the mechanical behavior of biomedical materials/Journal of mechanical behavior of biomedical materials” This study investigated the mechanical response of the human hair cuticle to strain and found that cuticular deformation directly corresponded with fiber elongation, revealing significant molecular-level changes in disulfide crosslinks but maintained structural stability, highlighting the role of the cuticle in stress resistance.
January 2026 in “Molecules” In this study, the novel thiol-Michael click perming molecule, MA2-CySS, achieved repeatable perming with reduced oxidative damage, preserving hair keratin's structure while maintaining efficiency comparable to traditional oxidative methods.
January 2026 in “Colloids and Surfaces B Biointerfaces” This study found that treating damaged hair with maleic-modified amino silicone oil created a highly hydrophobic surface, reducing water content and improving hair's mechanical properties and thermal stability.
December 2025 in “The American Journal of Medical Sciences and Pharmaceutical Research” This study outlines how combined ultrasonic and infrared hair treatments may enhance hair restoration and performance by breaking down keratin disulfide bonds for better treatment access and sealing cuticle scales to preserve improvements, with potential applications in salon and home settings.
This study evaluated the therapeutic response of an Afro-descendant patient with non-scarring alopecia after prolonged use of alkaline straighteners and mechanical traction, highlighting the susceptibility of Afro hair to chemical and mechanical damage due to its structure.
April 2025 in “Pharmaceuticals” This study found that novel thiol-reactive cross-linking agents, particularly APA, significantly improved the tensile strength and elasticity of human hair fibers by effectively regenerating disulfide bridges, with potential applications for advanced hair repair treatments in the cosmetic industry.
February 2025 in “Biomimetics” This study developed a novel hair-straightening shampoo incorporating a polyphenol–inorganic sulfate redox agent, finding that it effectively straightens hair while enhancing strength and reducing damage due to its protective polyphenol coating.
August 2024 in “Cosmetics” In this study, a bleaching protocol was developed to evaluate hair repair products, revealing that K18® and Olaplex® improve hair brightness and lightness, with distinct impacts on hair fiber properties.
May 2024 in “International Journal of Cosmetic Science” This review highlights that hair's chemical bonds, particularly disulfide bonds, are not homogeneous, as previously thought, but instead vary in response to different cosmetic treatments, suggesting a need for further exploration of ionic bonds and hydrophobic interactions.
January 2024 in “International Journal of Cosmetic Science” This study found that 1,4-n-butylene dimaleate can restore the mechanical properties of reduced hair by reconnecting disulfide bonds and improving the hair's structural integrity using a thiol-Michael click reaction, compared to untreated reduced hair.
October 2023 in “Journal of Molecular Liquids” This study demonstrated that imidazole-based ionic liquids, particularly [Emim]DEP, effectively dissolved yak hair keratin, maintaining its structure better than other tested solvents, and also performed well on human hair and goat wool, with consistent performance even after five recycling cycles.
November 2022 in “International journal of trichology” This study found that glyoxylic acid caused more protein loss in hair compared to traditional alkaline straighteners, though both types of treatments showed comparable effects on hair tensile strength.
This review summarizes recent genetic research on hidradenitis suppurativa, highlighting potential therapeutic targets and genetic mutations, but reports no new clinical findings.
January 2014 in “Sen i Gakkaishi” In this study, liposome-encapsulated thioglycolic acid improved hair perming by enhancing the penetration of perm solutions, resulting in a stronger S-shaped wave and higher cysteine content compared to the control.
January 2013 in “프로그램북(구 초록집)” This review discusses the chemical processes involved in hair styling and straightening and reports no new results; the authors highlight pregnancy safety with hair treatments during pregnancy.
January 2008 in “Chinese Journal of Spectroscopy Laboratory” This study utilized a fluorescence probe to evaluate cysteine formation on hair fibers, finding that optimal fluorescence emission occurred at pH 4.5.
October 2024 in “Cosmetics” This review highlights the lack of research on Afro-textured hair, emphasizing the need for better understanding of its genetic traits and molecular structure to develop more effective hair care solutions.
June 2023 in “Benha Journal of Applied Sciences” This study observed that female patients with chronic telogen effluvium had significantly lower levels of total thiol, thiol-disulphide, and disulphide compared to healthy controls, indicating a disruption in oxidative stress balance.
This study demonstrated that cryogelation of human hair keratin allows the development of 3D scaffolds with tunable properties, supporting cell adhesion and proliferation for potential biomedical applications.
109 citations
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January 1980 in “Science of the total environment” This paper reviews chemical analysis methods for trace elements in human hair and supports a no-wash policy due to challenges in distinguishing between endogenous and exogenous element sources.
52 citations
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May 2006 in “Journal of Structural Biology” This study identified two key pentapeptide quasi-repeats in human keratin-associated proteins, which are similar to motifs found in sheep wool.
27 citations
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May 2019 in “Cosmetics” This review explores the structure and development of the hair cuticle, highlighting difficulties in studying some aspects and proposing new experimental approaches, but reports no new clinical results.
23 citations
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June 2014 in “International Journal of Cosmetic Science” This study reported that the treatment of hair with glyoxylic acid straighteners causes major conformational changes within the hair fiber due to interactions between carbonyl and keratin components.
21 citations
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February 2019 in “Experimental Dermatology” The authors conclude that optimizing hair shaft production and appearance may best be achieved by integrating biological, chemical, and physical intervention strategies.
1 citations
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December 2023 in “Nanomaterials” In this study, the researchers synthesized copper-doped mesoporous silica nanoparticles and observed that they enhance tumor microenvironment regulation and, when paired with disulfiram, effectively kill cancer cells while also showing synergistic anti-tumor effects with immune checkpoint inhibitors.
1 citations
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January 1997 in “Skin Pharmacology and Physiology” In this study, researchers found a significant decrease in the modulus of elasticity of hair shafts in premature neonates compared to full-term ones, potentially due to differences in disulphide bonds or microfibril arrangement.
1 citations
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July 1935 in “Nature” This study found super-contraction in the guard hairs of fur-bearing animals, likely due to oxidation in living animals, primarily affecting white and red foxes without prior heat or chemical treatment.
May 2026 in “International Journal of Cosmetic Science” In this study, researchers observed that using an Avena strigosa seed extract on chemically damaged hair significantly improved hair properties, including strength, gloss, and surface quality, by reinforcing keratin bonding and sealing cuticle damage.
September 2025 in “International Journal of Cosmetic Science” This study observed that exposing human hair keratins to heat or UV treatments led to modifications in cysteine residues, disrupting crucial disulphide bonds and potentially reducing the structural integrity of hair similar to prolonged styling or sunlight exposure.