The Oxidative Degradation of Keratin (Wool and Bovine Hair)

    January 2006 in “ Journal of the American Leather Chemists Association ”
    William N. Marmer, Robert L. Dudley
    TLDR Oxidizing agents break down keratin in wool and hair, causing swelling and increased solubility.
    The study explored the oxidative degradation of keratin in wool and bovine hair using various alkaline oxidative systems, including perborate, percarbonate, and hydrogen peroxide/cyanate. It was found that the oxidative dehairing reactions could be described by a single reaction mechanism, where the base acted as both a catalyst for hydrolysis and an aid in hair shaft swelling. The disulfide linkages in cystine were cleaved by the oxidizing agents, and while some cysteine remained unoxidized, cystine was oxidized to cysteic acid across all systems. The addition of oxidizing agents increased the solubilization of wool and decreased the molecular weight of solubilized keratin, indicating enhanced hair swelling and water uptake.
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