Novel Prospects of Shikimic Acid and Prunus Mume Extract for Enhancing Bioactivity on 5α-Reductase and Stability in Cosmetic Patches for Acne Treatment

    January 2026 in “ Frontiers in Natural Products
    Elizaveta Patronova, Egor A. Ilin, Viktor Filatov, Elena Kalenikova
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    Azelaic Acid →

    acid used for antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory and anti-androgenic properties

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    Studysummary This study found that combining shikimic acid with Prunus mume fruit extract significantly reduces type I 5α-reductase levels in testosterone-stressed skin sebocytes, surpassing the effects of shikimic acid or standard acne treatments alone, and shows promise for stable, non-irritating acne remedies in cosmetic formulations. Our plain-language summary of this paper — not a Tressless recommendation.
    The study highlights the potential of combining shikimic acid with Prunus mume fruit extract to effectively modulate type I 5α-reductase activity, which is linked to acne. The combination, tested in vitro, showed enhanced efficacy in reducing 5α-reductase levels under testosterone-induced stress, outperforming shikimic acid alone and common acne treatments like salicylic and azelaic acids. The formulation demonstrated good cytotoxicity profiles and stability, with no adverse effects observed in clinical trials on healthy volunteers. This suggests a promising natural approach for treating acne and reducing skin inflammation, warranting further research for pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical applications.
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