Permanent Hair Waving

February 2022 in “ Cosmetic Dermatology ”

Annette Schwan‐Jonczyk, Gerhard Sendelbach, Andreas Flohr, Rene C. Rust

permanent hair waving chemical process mechanical process hair proteins curls reducing agents ammonia sodium salts of thioglycolic acid skin irritation hair irritation acidic wave preparations neutral wave preparations glycerol monothioglycolate perms thioglycolic acid

TLDR Permanent hair waving uses chemicals to create long-lasting curls.

Permanent hair waving is a chemical and mechanical process designed to alter hair proteins to create and maintain curls. Historically, women with straight hair used wigs or temporary methods involving water and heat. Hair fibers, which vary in shape, age due to grooming and environmental factors. Permanent waving products are formulated with various ingredients to suit different hair types, including normal, sensitive, coarse, and colored/bleached hair. Since the late 1950s, reducing agents like ammonia or sodium salts of thioglycolic acid have been used to minimize skin and hair irritation while achieving lasting curls. Acidic and neutral wave preparations often use glycerol monothioglycolate as the reducing agent.

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