Deposition of 18-MEA onto Damaged Hair to Form a Persistent Hydrophobicity

January 2011 in “ Journal of Society of Cosmetic Chemists of Japan ”

Shinichi Tokunaga, Hiroto Tanamachi, Shigeto Inoue, Tomoki Morioka, Hisashi Tsujimura, Noriyuki Tanji, Taichi Habe, Osamu Yamashita

18-MEA 18-methyleicosanoic acid damaged hair hydrophobicity low-friction properties alkaline treatments hair coloring long-chain tertiary amine stearoxypropyl dimethylamine SPDA adsorptive film alkyl groups friction resistance conditioners smoothness flyaway hair frizzy hair hair manageability

TLDR 18-MEA and SPDA can restore damaged hair's smoothness and reduce frizz.

The study found that 18-MEA (18-methyleicosanoic acid) could be effectively re-deposited onto damaged hair to restore its hydrophobic and low-friction properties, which are often lost due to alkaline treatments like hair coloring. By combining 18-MEA with a specific long-chain tertiary amine (stearoxypropyl dimethylamine: SPDA), the researchers developed a technique to form a highly adsorptive film on the hair surface. This film, with its alkyl groups facing outward, uniformly covered the hair and created a liquid-like phase at the surface, enhancing friction resistance. Tests with conditioners containing 18-MEA and SPDA showed improved smoothness, reduced flyaway and frizzy hair, and better overall hair manageability.

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