The Analysis of Scalp Irritation by Coacervates Produced in Hair Shampoo via FTIR with Focal Plane Array Detector, X-ray Photoelectron Microscopy and HaCaT Cells

    August 2016 in “ International Journal of Cosmetic Science ”
    In‐Keun Jung, S. C. Park, S. H. Kim, J. H. Kim, Nikhishaa Sree Raju, Woosung Bae, H. N. Kim, S. A. Cho, Jae Won Yoo, Boo‐Min Kim, J. H. Lee
    Studysummary In this in-vitro study, researchers found that shampoo-induced coacervates structurally resemble cationic polymers and contain anionic surfactants that may stimulate the scalp upon exposure to water. Our plain-language summary of this paper — not a Tressless recommendation.
    The study aimed to analyze coacervates formed by hair shampoos to identify components responsible for scalp irritation. Using FTIR-FPA and XPS, the researchers found that coacervates are macromolecules similar to cationic polymers containing anionic surfactants. These surfactants are semi-stable and release onto the scalp when exposed to moisture, leading to potential scalp irritation. HaCaT cells were used to test the irritant properties of the coacervates, confirming that the release of sulphate bonding into the matrix upon water exposure could cause scalp stimulation.
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