Characterization of Nonkeratinous Proteins Extracted from Human Hair by Permanent Wave Lotion

    January 1990 in “ Journal of Society of Cosmetic Chemists of Japan ”
    Setsuko Kanetaka, Katsuyasu Miyata, Yoshiharu Nakamura
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    TLDR Permanent wave lotion can extract proteins from hair, especially when pH is higher, and repeated treatments or bleaching can damage hair.
    This study characterized nonkeratinous and keratinous proteins extracted from human hair using permanent wave lotion I (PWL-I). It was found that PWL-I could extract proteins accounting for about 1% of the hair's total mass, with extraction efficiency increasing with pH. The molecular weights of these proteins ranged from 5,000 to 65,000. The amino acid composition of the extracts was similar to collagenous proteins, suggesting they were eluted from the δ layer among cortical cells. Additionally, keratinous proteins were extracted from hair damaged by repeated PWL treatments or bleaching, likely from the matrix in cortical cells composed of high sulfur content keratin. These findings contributed to understanding the mechanisms of protein elution and hair damage from external treatments.
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