Synthesis of a New Amino Acid Derivative with Long-Lasting Hair Shape Control Effects and Elucidation of Its Mechanisms

February 2025 in “ International Journal of Cosmetic Science ”

Sotaro Sato, Hiroyasu Tabuchi, Kohtaro Katayama, Kenji Matsumoto, Hiroyuki Miyamoto, Sorai Kanno, Hiroshi Sekiguchi, Yoshinobu Tanaka, Mari Inoue, Choji Murata, Hiroki Hotta, Yoshio Tsujino

2-(2-aminoethylthio) succinic acid ATS cysteamine fumaric acid keratin proteins intermediate filaments small-angle X-ray scattering SAXS

TLDR A new amino acid derivative, ATS, improves hair texture and moisture, making it easier to straighten curly hair.

The study investigates a new amino acid derivative, 2-(2-aminoethylthio) succinic acid (ATS), for its long-lasting hair shape control effects. The research demonstrates that heat treatment with a solution of cysteamine and fumaric acid significantly improves hair quality, particularly in straightening strong curls of African human hair. ATS, identified as the active ingredient, reduces friction and bending stiffness while increasing moisture content in hair. Small-angle X-ray scattering (SAXS) measurements show that ATS treatment widens the distance between intermediate filaments (IFs) and enhances their orientation, suggesting that ATS acts as a crosslinker for keratin proteins, thereby improving hair texture and moisture retention.

View this study on doi.org →

Discuss this study in the Community →

Research cited in this study

9 / 9 results

research Impact of Acid (Progressive Brush) and Alkaline Straightening on the Hair Fiber: Differential Effects on the Cuticle and Cortex Properties

November 2022 in “International journal of trichology”

Glyoxylic acid straighteners cause more protein loss but have similar hair strength effects as traditional alkaline straighteners.

research Straight to the Point: What Do We Know So Far on Hair Straightening?

4 citations, January 2021 in “Skin appendage disorders”

Hair straightening can damage hair and pose health risks, including exposure to carcinogens and hair loss.

research Mechanical Characterization of Curly Hair: Influence of Nonconventional Hair Straightening Treatments

13 citations, March 2017 in “Skin Research and Technology”

Formaldehyde damages curly hair more than glyoxylic acid.

research Formaldehyde Replacement with Glyoxylic Acid in Semipermanent Hair Straightening: A New and Multidisciplinary Investigation

23 citations, June 2014 in “International Journal of Cosmetic Science”

Glyoxylic acid is a safer alternative to formaldehyde for hair straightening and effectively changes hair structure.

research Brazilian Keratin Hair Treatment: A Review

40 citations, June 2013 in “Journal of cosmetic dermatology”

Brazilian keratin treatments can straighten hair but may contain harmful formaldehyde.

research Chemical Reactions in Curing Treatment for Permanent Hair Straightening Using Thioglycolic and Dithioglycolic Acids

3 citations, January 2009 in “Sen'i Gakkaishi”

Using both TGA and DTDG in hair straightening reduces hair damage compared to using TGA alone.

research Cortical Cell Types and Intermediate Filament Arrangements Correlate with Fiber Curvature in Japanese Human Hair

62 citations, December 2008 in “Journal of structural biology”

Hair curvature in Japanese people is linked to specific cell types and filament arrangements in the hair cortex.

research Friction and Wear Studies of Human Hair and Skin

97 citations, January 2005 in “Wear”

Human hair and skin friction vary by ethnicity, hair type, and environmental conditions.

research Mechanism of Hair Straightening

10 citations, January 1994

Hair can be straightened using different chemicals, not just strong alkali.

Similar Research

5 / 1000+ results

research Photosensitized 2-Amino-3-Hydroxypyridine-Induced Mitochondrial Apoptosis via Smac/DIABLO in Human Skin Cells

10 citations, March 2016 in “Toxicology and applied pharmacology”

Using A132 hair dye with sunlight can cause skin damage and hair loss.

A Randomized Clinical Trial of 5% Topical Minoxidil Versus 2% Topical Minoxidil and Placebo in the Treatment of Androgenetic Alopecia in Men

research A Randomized Clinical Trial of 5% Topical Minoxidil Versus 2% Topical Minoxidil and Placebo in the Treatment of Androgenetic Alopecia in Men

269 citations, August 2002 in “Journal of The American Academy of Dermatology”

5% minoxidil works better for hair growth and density, with minor irritation.

research A Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Trial of 5% and 2% Topical Minoxidil Solutions in the Treatment of Female Pattern Hair Loss

219 citations, March 2004 in “Journal of The American Academy of Dermatology”

5% and 2% minoxidil solutions effectively promote hair growth and reduce hair loss, with 5% being slightly more effective but having more side effects.

research Sebum Free Fatty Acids Enhance the Innate Immune Defense of Human Sebocytes by Upregulating Beta-Defensin-2 Expression

195 citations, December 2009 in “Journal of Investigative Dermatology”

Free fatty acids in sebum boost skin's defense against acne by increasing antimicrobial peptides.

research Reversal of Alopecia Areata Following Treatment With the JAK1/2 Inhibitor Baricitinib

184 citations, February 2015 in “EBioMedicine”

A patient with Alopecia Areata had complete hair regrowth after using the drug baricitinib.