Ethnic Hair And Skin: What Is The State Of The Science?

May 2002 in “ Clinics in Dermatology ”

Márcia Ramos‐e‐Silva

ethnic hair ethnic skin dermatologic products African hair hair breakage elliptical cross-section curly hair African-American hair dry hair hair oils shampooing straightening treatments sodium hydroxide traction alopecia hair oils shampooing hair straightening lye traction alopecia

TLDR Ethnic differences in hair and skin are significant and under-researched, requiring tailored dermatologic treatments and more study.

In September 2001, over 170 dermatologists and healthcare scientists from various countries convened in Chicago to discuss ethnic differences in hair and skin, focusing on new research and treatment challenges for dermatologic products. The symposium, supported by L'Oréal, highlighted that ethnic skin has been understudied and that hair care practices and dermatologic principles may vary between ethnicities. Key findings presented included the physical properties of hair differing among races, with African hair being more prone to breakage due to its elliptical cross-section and curly structure. African-American hair tends to be dry, leading to frequent use of oils and less shampooing. Straightening treatments, especially those containing sodium hydroxide, can damage hair and lead to traction alopecia. The symposium emphasized the need for more research on racial differences in skin and hair, with a follow-up event planned for 2003.

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