The Science of Color: How Chemical Dyeing Processes Transform Hair Structure
November 2025
in “
Zenodo (CERN European Organization for Nuclear Research)
”
New to Keratin? There is a guide in the encyclopedia. Read the guide → 
Studysummary This study examined how different hair dye processes affect hair structure at a molecular level, finding that oxidative dyes increase keratin porosity more than non-oxidative dyes, and highlighted emerging technology aimed at reducing hair damage while preserving color quality. Our plain-language summary of this paper — not a Tressless recommendation.
This study explores the chemical processes involved in hair dyeing, focusing on both oxidative and non-oxidative methods and their impact on hair structure. It highlights how oxidative dyes, using hydrogen peroxide and alkalising agents, alter keratin, lift the cuticle, and increase hair porosity. In contrast, semi-permanent and direct dyes cause less structural damage. The paper also discusses new technologies like bond-repair additives and ammonia-free systems that aim to maintain hair health while achieving desired color results. These findings offer a biochemical basis for balancing aesthetic outcomes with the preservation of hair integrity.
