Learning From Hair Moisture Sorption And Hysteresis

    Steven Breakspear, P. Frueh, A. Neu, Bernd Noecker, C. Popescu, Q. Uellner
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    Studysummary This study found that the moisture sorption and desorption process can differentiate between cosmetic treatments of hair and provide insights into hair fibre structure changes, with bleaching causing greater symmetry breaking than perming. Our plain-language summary of this paper — not a Tressless recommendation.
    The study "Learning from hair moisture sorption and hysteresis" analyzed the process of moisture sorption and desorption by human hair to gain insights into hair structure. The researchers recorded the isotherms of moisture sorption and desorption for untreated and chemically treated (permed and bleached) hair, and also considered data of swelling. The results suggested that hysteresis is unlikely caused by capillary condensation, but rather by the mobility of protein chains and the strength of bonds binding water molecules to active sites inside the matrix. The study introduced the concept of "breaking symmetry" as a way to characterize the chemical treatment of hair, with bleaching causing a larger breaking of symmetry than perming due to the creation of new hydrogen bonds. The study also identified two transitions in relative humidity that affect the hair's mechanical behavior. The moisture sorption-desorption process was found to provide valuable information on the structure of the hair and allow a quantitative differentiation among various cosmetic treatments.
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