Cosmeceuticals

    November 2004
    Jie Jack Li, Douglas S. Johnson, Drago R. Sliskovic, Bruce D. Roth
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    TLDR Isotretinoin and tazarotene help treat acne, while minoxidil and finasteride promote hair growth.
    The 2004 document discussed the properties and synthesis of four cosmeceuticals: isotretinoin, tazarotene, minoxidil, and finasteride. Isotretinoin and tazarotene are used for acne treatment, with isotretinoin reducing sebaceous gland size and sebum production, and tazarotene normalizing keratinocyte differentiation and proliferation. Minoxidil and finasteride are used for hair growth. Minoxidil was initially a vasodilator for hypertension treatment but was found to promote hair growth when applied topically. Finasteride, initially developed for benign prostatic hyperplasia (BPH), inhibits 5α-reductase, which converts testosterone to a more potent androgen, 5α-dihydrotestosterone (DHT), thus lowering DHT levels without affecting testosterone levels. A study found finasteride increased hair weight in four out of five balding monkeys and was more effective when combined with minoxidil. In clinical trials, finasteride was effective at a dose of 5 mg/day for androgenic alopecia.
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