TLDR Curly hair breaks due to mechanical damage and environmental factors, not chemical makeup, and needs ongoing care to prevent breakage.
In 2005, the L'Oréal Institute for hair and skin research conducted a study on hair breakage among women in the U.S., finding that 96% of African-American respondents experienced breakage. The study suggested that structural differences and grooming-induced stresses, rather than chemical composition, contribute to this higher incidence. To understand the fracture mechanisms in African-American hair, hair from a volunteer was subjected to controlled mechanical stresses and analyzed using scanning electron microscopy and X-ray tomographic microscopy. The research identified a breakage mechanism involving cuticle sliding, failure at the cuticle-cortex interface, crack nucleation and growth, and final breakage due to merging cracks. The study concluded that mechanical damage and environmental factors cause internal cracks leading to breakage, recommending continuous hair care throughout the hair's life cycle.
13 citations,
November 2012 in “International Journal of Dermatology” Curly hair breaks more easily, especially with chemical treatments, but simpler grooming reduces breakage.
20 citations,
June 2012 in “British Journal of Dermatology” Bleaching hair damages protein structure, especially keratin, leading to weakened hair.
62 citations,
December 2008 in “Journal of structural biology” Hair curvature in Japanese people is linked to specific cell types and filament arrangements in the hair cortex.
37 citations,
November 2007 in “The journal of investigative dermatology. Symposium proceedings/The Journal of investigative dermatology symposium proceedings” Black hair is fragile due to hair care practices, not structural differences.
7 citations,
November 2004 in “International Journal of Cosmetic Science” Hair breaks differently when wet or dry and is affected by its condition and treatments like perms and bleaching.
203 citations,
June 2003 in “Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology” Human hair, despite its different types, shares common traits that affect its structure and response to treatments.
13 citations,
November 2012 in “International Journal of Dermatology” Curly hair breaks more easily, especially with chemical treatments, but simpler grooming reduces breakage.
8 citations,
November 2022 in “International Journal of Cosmetic Science” Human hair varies widely and should be classified by curl type rather than race.
12 citations,
January 2015 in “Skin appendage disorders” Dermoscopy helps quickly identify hair breakage in people of African descent.
20 citations,
October 2013 in “British Journal of Dermatology” The document concludes that clinicians should be aware of common hair and scalp disorders in women of African descent and that more research is needed to develop effective treatments.
55 citations,
October 2003 in “Dermatologic Clinics” Different hair care practices and conditions affect African American hair and scalp health, requiring specialized knowledge for treatment.
