Botanical Extracts in Cosmetics and Pharmaceuticals: Historical Use, Regulatory Approaches, and Extraction Processes

In 2002, Alain Khaiat's paper explored the use of botanical extracts in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, detailing their historical use in traditional medicine and the resurgence of interest by modern companies. The paper outlined the differences in regulatory approaches between the U.S. FDA and the European Commission, and the extraction processes used to obtain botanical extracts, such as pressing, percolation, and maceration. It highlighted the importance of solvent selection to prevent toxicity and the use of biotechnology in extraction and transformation processes. The paper emphasized the wide range of activities of botanical extracts, including their antioxidant properties, skin barrier function maintenance, and use in slimming products. It also discussed specific extracts and their benefits, such as flavonoids for lipid degradation, ascorbic acid for collagen synthesis, and saponins for their potential in treating androgenic alopecia. The conclusion underscored the growing importance of botanical extracts in cosmetics and drugs due to their efficacy and safety, supported by traditional use and scientific research.