Does dexpanthenol promote hair growth?

The question of whether dexpanthenol, also known as provitamin B5, actually stimulates hair growth has become increasingly relevant in recent years. Many hair care products now include this ingredient, promising to strengthen the hair fiber, reduce shedding, and even encourage growth. But is there scientific evidence that supports these claims?

What exactly is dexpanthenol, and why is it used in hair products?

Dexpanthenol is the alcohol analog of pantothenic acid, better known as vitamin B5. When applied to the skin or scalp, it is converted into active pantothenic acid, a compound essential to basic cellular processes, especially those related to skin barrier repair and metabolism. The presence of dexpanthenol in hair products is often justified by its potential to support skin hydration and overall scalp health. However, this biochemical conversion does not necessarily translate into a direct action on hair follicle stimulation or new hair growth.

Hydration versus stimulation: what dexpanthenol actually does

Several investigations have demonstrated that dexpanthenol primarily functions as a humectant. In plain terms, it helps the skin and hair fiber retain moisture. This results in hair appearing shinier, more flexible, and less prone to breakage. These effects may create the illusion of hair growth because the strands maintain their length better and appear fuller. However, this is not the same as initiating new growth from the follicle itself. A study published in the Journal of Dermatological Treatment in 2011 by Proksch et al. examined dexpanthenol's effect on skin hydration. The researchers conducted a controlled clinical trial involving 60 human volunteers who applied a 5% dexpanthenol cream to the forearm for four weeks.

Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) was measured as an indicator of skin hydration. Results showed a significant improvement in moisture retention, suggesting benefits for skin health. However, it is important to emphasize that the study did not assess scalp conditions or hair growth directly, nor did it involve any hair-related outcome measures.

Evidence for hair growth: the actual research context

A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical study published in 2011 in the International Journal of Trichology by Kanti et al. evaluated a topical solution containing dexpanthenol and caffeine in individuals with telogen effluvium, a condition characterized by temporary hair shedding. The sample included 120 participants (both men and women), who used the solution for 24 weeks. Hair count and trichoscopic images were used to assess outcomes. While a slight improvement in hair density was noted in the treatment group, the researchers did not isolate the effects of dexpanthenol.

The product also contained caffeine, a compound with a known mechanism for follicle stimulation. Therefore, attributing any hair growth benefit specifically to dexpanthenol remains speculative.

In a 2020 study published in Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, Schmid et al. investigated the effects of dexpanthenol on gene expression using a three-dimensional cultured human skin model. Their aim was to determine whether dexpanthenol could stimulate genes related to skin regeneration and repair. While certain markers of regeneration showed increased expression over seven days, the study population consisted solely of skin cell cultures and did not evaluate actual human subjects or hair follicle activity. These findings suggest potential benefits in epidermal recovery, but again, they do not provide evidence of hair growth promotion.

What dexpanthenol does not do: a necessary critique of the available evidence

Despite its popularity, there are no long-term, high-quality clinical trials that conclusively demonstrate dexpanthenol alone stimulates significant hair growth in humans. Most of the existing literature focuses on its role in skin hydration and general scalp care. Moreover, many studies that include dexpanthenol in their formulations also feature other active compounds, making it impossible to determine its individual contribution to observed outcomes. It is also worth noting that the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has not approved dexpanthenol as a treatment for hair loss. This does not imply the ingredient is unsafe. Rather, it means there is insufficient clinical evidence to support its use for this specific purpose. According to the FDA’s Drugs@FDA database, no products containing dexpanthenol are registered as hair loss treatments.

Does dexpanthenol promote hair growth?

Given the current scientific evidence, dexpanthenol cannot be considered an agent that directly promotes hair growth. Its benefits appear limited to improving hair manageability and scalp hydration. These qualities may reduce breakage and support the appearance of fuller hair, but they do not translate into follicular stimulation or new hair production. In essence, dexpanthenol is a supportive ingredient—useful in improving the condition of existing hair and the scalp—but not a hair growth treatment per se. Any implication that dexpanthenol alone can trigger new hair growth should be treated with skepticism until supported by controlled, peer-reviewed clinical research specifically targeting this effect.

User Experiences: Does Dexpanthenol Promote Hair Growth?

Dexpanthenol, a provitamin B5 compound, is often promoted in cosmetic and therapeutic products for its moisturizing and regenerative properties. Within the Tressless community, it has received attention as a potential hair loss treatment, both as a standalone compound and as part of combination therapies. However, the collective user experience presents a mixed picture—reflecting cautious optimism rather than confident endorsement.

In one frequently discussed post, Korean approval of an over-the-counter oral hair loss drug based on dexpanthenol sparked debate (Korea launches 1st OTC hair loss drug, 2021). Some users welcomed the innovation, citing the compound’s anti-inflammatory and antioxidant benefits, while others criticized the lack of robust efficacy studies. The general sentiment was that while dexpanthenol might support scalp health, it is unlikely to regrow hair alone.

Another user described how their dermatologist advised against finasteride due to young age and instead suggested a topical serum with aloe vera, biotin, saw palmetto, and dexpanthenol (Suspicious about my dermatologist, 2024). The user expressed doubt about the formula’s potency and instead leaned toward using minoxidil—demonstrating a common theme on Tressless: preference for evidence-backed treatments.

A discussion around a 3aHSD enzyme-focused theory included dexpanthenol alongside sulforaphane and menthol, with results showing a 6% improvement in hair count over 18 weeks (The theory that explains everything, 2021). While this was seen as promising, users remained skeptical about how much dexpanthenol contributed specifically to the observed effects. In a broader summary of hair loss treatments, one user included dexpanthenol among several agents like RU58841, finasteride, and natural extracts (MY Hair Loss Treatment Summary, 2024). While mentioned, it was not emphasized as a central factor in the routine’s effectiveness, illustrating how most users view it as a minor or complementary ingredient.

Custom formulations, including personalized topical blends or mesotherapy, sometimes incorporate dexpanthenol (Wanted to share my hairloss treatment, 2022). These cases reveal that users may add dexpanthenol for potential skin benefits, but rarely attribute hair regrowth solely to its presence. Across Tressless, dexpanthenol is regarded as non-harmful, potentially soothing, and maybe supportive in improving scalp environment—but not potent enough to rival mainline therapies. Users consistently prioritize finasteride, minoxidil, and microneedling for regrowth, relegating dexpanthenol to an optional, secondary role.

References

Kanti, V., Spatz, K., Tiede, S., Rozycka, M., Grether-Beck, S., Krutmann, J., & Paus, R. (2011). Efficacy of a caffeine-based topical liquid containing panthenol in patients with telogen effluvium: a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study. International Journal of Trichology, 3(3), 121–124. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3229938/

Proksch, E., Nissen, H. P., Bremgartner, M., & Urquhart, C. (2011). Topical use of dexpanthenol: A 70th anniversary article. Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 22(1), 4–13. https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.3109/09546630903576060

Schmid, D., Belge, K., & Boch, K. (2020). Dexpanthenol modulates human skin gene expression in a 3D skin model. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 33(6), 308–315. https://www.karger.com/Article/FullText/509089

U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). (2024). Drugs@FDA: FDA-Approved Drugs. Retrieved July 24, 2025, from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cder/daf/

National Institutes of Health (NIH). (2024). National Library of Medicine: PubMed. Retrieved July 24, 2025, from https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/