DSC-investigations of alpha-keratins and the specific effects of chemical treatments on human hair

    January 2006
    FJ Wortmann, G Sendelbach, C. Popescu
    The study investigated the effects of chemical treatments on human hair using differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) to analyze the thermal stability of alpha-keratins. It was found that the denaturation temperature of hair increased with the cross-link density of the matrix, influenced by cystine. European human hair subjected to oxidative (bleaching) and reductive (perm-waving) treatments showed that both intermediate filaments (IFs) and IF-associated proteins (IFAPs) were similarly affected by bleaching, while reductive damage was more pronounced in IFs. The study revealed that oxidative treatments led to a decrease in denaturation temperature from 158°C to 138°C after seven treatments and a 40% reduction in native alpha-helix content. The kinetic analysis suggested that the matrix's viscosity plays a crucial role in controlling the denaturation process, with oxidative treatments potentially affecting the crystalline structure of IFs inhomogeneously.
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