TLDR Polisorbate 20 is not suitable for curl creams due to instability.
The pilot study on curl cream development highlights the unique structural and moisture challenges of curly hair compared to straight hair. Curly hair fibers vary in shape and are more prone to dryness and damage due to their lifted cuticles. The study tested various curl cream formulations, which ranged from fluid lotions to mousse-like consistencies, and found them mostly homogenous and easy to apply, with pH values between 5.09 and 6.97. However, formulations containing Polisorbate 20 showed instability under mechanical stress, indicating it is an unsuitable emulsifier for these products. Further research is needed to better understand curly hair structures and improve product formulations.
8 citations
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July 2019 in “The journal of investigative dermatology/Journal of investigative dermatology” Curly hair is mechanically different from straight hair and may need new testing methods.
43 citations
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January 2013 in “Indian Journal of Dermatology, Venereology and Leprology” The article concludes that advancements in hair cosmetics require dermatologists to stay informed about products and their potential risks, including allergies and higher risks for hairdressers.
47 citations
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November 2007 in “The journal of investigative dermatology. Symposium proceedings/The Journal of investigative dermatology symposium proceedings” Healthy hair is shiny, smooth, and has clean ends.
42 citations
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November 2005 in “The journal of investigative dermatology. Symposium proceedings/The Journal of investigative dermatology symposium proceedings” New hair products are being developed to keep hair and scalp healthy for everyone.