Cosmetic Potential of a Structural Protein Copolymer Based on Silk, Elastin, and Keratin

    Ana Mota (4339942), Marta Caçador (22299889), José Pedro Carvalho (22299892), Ana Tinoco (7105277), André da Costa (12123346), Artur Ribeiro (1659844), Filipa Gonçalves (5591333), Artur Cavaco-Paulo (1532776)
    TLDR SELP::KP improves hair strength, elasticity, and health, making it a promising hair cosmetic.
    This study introduces SELP::KP, a biobased copolymer derived from silk, elastin, and keratin, as a promising alternative for hair cosmetics. Expressed in Escherichia coli and purified without chromatography, SELP::KP exhibits a β-sheet-rich structure and high thermal stability. When applied to hair, it penetrates both the cuticle and cortex, enhancing strength and elasticity, with a 34.9% increase in Young’s modulus and a 12.4% improvement in extensibility. It also acts as a safer perming agent, maintaining curl effects with less damage, and reduces combing strength by half, serving as an effective conditioning agent. SELP::KP offers styling benefits and improved hair health, suitable for use as a leave-in treatment or hair mask.
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