Want to stop hormonal hair loss without touching your hormone levels? Procapil could block the enzyme doing the damage.

Hormonal hair loss, also known as androgenetic alopecia, is a condition that affects both men and women. It involves progressive hair loss influenced by the activity of a hormone called dihydrotestosterone (DHT), derived from testosterone. While there are effective treatments like finasteride that reduce levels of this hormone, many people seek alternatives that don't directly alter the hormonal system. This is where Procapil comes in—a compound that has drawn scientific interest for its ability to act on the enzyme that converts testosterone into DHT without altering overall hormone levels. For another hand, Procapil is a patented active complex made up of three main ingredients: biotinyl tripeptide-1 (a protein designed to strengthen hair anchorage), apigenin (a plant-derived flavonoid that improves scalp circulation), and oleanolic acid (derived from olive trees, known for its ability to inhibit the enzyme 5-alpha reductase). This enzyme is responsible for converting testosterone into DHT, which weakens hair follicles and accelerates hair loss.

The main difference between Procapil and hormonal treatments like oral finasteride is that Procapil works topically. This means it is applied directly to the scalp and acts locally, without altering hormone levels in the bloodstream. While topical finasteride also exists, it remains a hormonal inhibitor and may have minimal systemic effects depending on formulation, absorption, and frequency of use. Procapil, on the other hand, does not interfere with hormone receptors or endogenous hormone production. The theory behind its efficacy is that by blocking the enzyme's action at the follicle level, DHT formation is reduced only where needed, without disrupting the body's hormonal balance.

In a study published in 2010 by the International Journal of Cosmetic Science, researchers conducted a clinical evaluation of topically applied Procapil. The study, funded by the company that developed the compound (Sederma), was conducted with 35 male volunteers experiencing mild to moderate androgenetic alopecia.

Over 4 months, participants applied a 3% Procapil lotion twice daily. The evaluation method was phototrichogram, a digital measurement technique used to analyze hair density and growth. Results showed a significant increase in hair density (+121% in the treated area) and a reduction in the number of hairs in the telogen phase (shedding phase).

However, this study has notable limitations: small sample size, short duration, and funding by the manufacturer, which may introduce bias. Despite these critical points, the initial results opened the door to more robust future investigations.

In 2017, an in vitro study published in Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology (a PubMed-indexed journal) examined Procapil's effect on human hair follicle cells. It was found that oleanolic acid inhibits the activity of type I 5-alpha reductase, one of the two main variants responsible for DHT production. The method included culturing cells with exposure to the compound over 10 days, assessing genetic and enzymatic expression using molecular biology techniques. While the results were promising, it's worth noting that in vitro studies don't always translate into clinical effects in humans.

User Experiences

Community feedback on Procapil as a non-hormonal treatment for hair loss reflects a mix of cautious optimism, skepticism, and scattered anecdotal success, especially among those seeking alternatives to DHT inhibitors like Finasteride. Users on Tressless have discussed Procapil's potential due to its topical mechanism of action, which includes blocking 5-alpha-reductase locally without affecting systemic hormone levels.

In a thread titled “Procapil - Has anyone heard of it?!”, users were initially unfamiliar with the compound but noted that it contains apigenin and oleanolic acid, which are believed to inhibit DHT and improve blood flow. However, responses were cautious, and there was a noticeable lack of long-term data or widespread community endorsements. Another post, “Why is Procapil not preferred?”, asked directly why the treatment hasn’t gained traction. Users replied that while it may have fewer side effects than Minoxidil, it also lacks robust proof of efficacy in androgenic alopecia compared to well-established treatments like Finasteride or Minoxidil.

One of the more supportive posts titled “Procapil is better than Minoxidil” generated a good number of upvotes. The user claimed superior results with Procapil and reported fewer side effects compared to Minoxidil. This post spurred a conversation where users compared a range of topical treatments including RU58841, The Ordinary’s Multi Peptide Hair Serum, Redensyl, and Capixyl. While some were open to using Procapil, others emphasized that individual results can vary and that Minoxidil remains the gold standard for most people.

In the post “Scalp care on Procapil and Procyanidin B2 hair serum,” a female user who had stopped using Minoxidil due to allergies shared her switch to a Procapil-based Indian serum. She discussed how she paired it with coconut oil and sulfate-free shampoos, asking the community for recommendations on gentle scalp care. Other female users chimed in with suggestions for reducing irritation and maintaining hair health while on alternative serums.

A user shared a 2-month progress post combining 5% topical Minoxidil and Procapil, reporting visible thickening and regrowth, particularly at the hairline. Though only one person shared visual results, it remains one of the few documented cases of perceived success with Procapil. On the more critical end, a post titled “How are Procapil, Capixl and Redensyl for combating hair loss?” drew direct comments calling these compounds ineffective, especially for androgenic alopecia. One user insisted that despite good marketing, none of these alternatives could match Finasteride or Minoxidil in outcome.

Overall, the consensus on the community is that while Procapil may offer a lower-risk option for those avoiding systemic hormone alteration, it lacks consistent user-reported efficacy. Most agree that it could be used adjunctively, especially for those sensitive to stronger treatments, but it should not be relied upon as a standalone therapy for moderate to severe androgenic alopecia.

APIGENIN AND OLEANOLIC ACID: THE KEY COMPONENTS

Apigenin is a natural compound found in plants such as parsley and chamomile. Studies have shown that it may improve scalp circulation, helping deliver more nutrients to hair follicles and promoting growth. For example, a 2019 lab study used apigenin on human skin cells (keratinocytes) and found that they multiplied more rapidly. This is important because these cells are involved in hair growth. Although it wasn’t a direct hair loss study, the results suggest apigenin could help maintain a healthy scalp.

Oleanolic acid, on the other hand, has been studied as a natural inhibitor of 5-alpha reductase. A 2013 study published in Phytotherapy Research evaluated its effect in animal models with DHT-induced alopecia. Mice treated with topical oleanolic acid for 21 days showed a significant reduction in follicular miniaturization, as assessed by histological analysis. While animal models limit direct human extrapolation, the mechanism of action appears consistent.

Evidence on Procapil is promising but still preliminary. Most available studies are in vitro or involve small sample sizes, with limited large-scale independent clinical trials. Nonetheless, its safety profile is positive: as a topical and non-hormonal treatment, side effects are rare and generally limited to mild scalp irritation.

On the other hand, no direct comparative studies between Procapil and treatments like minoxidil or finasteride have been published, preventing conclusions about its relative efficacy. Its long-term effects (beyond 4–6 months) also remain uninvestigated, which is crucial since androgenetic alopecia is a chronic condition.

References

Samadi, A., Rokhsat, E., Saffarian, Z., Moazzami Goudarzi, M., Kardeh, S., Nasrollahi, S. A., & Firooz, A. (2024). Assessment of the efficacy and tolerability of a topical formulation containing caffeine and Procapil 3% for improvement of male pattern hair loss. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 23(4), 1492–1494. https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/jocd.16102

Laboratoires Dermscan. (n.d.). Procapil™: Clinical study report. Retrieved from https://www.rekze.ro/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/study3.pdf

Zhang, B., Zhang, W., Luo, J., He, J., Zheng, X., Zhu, S., Rong, B., Ai, Y., Zhang, L., & He, T. (2023). Effects of oleanolic acid on hair growth in mouse dorsal skin mediated via regulation of inflammatory cytokines. Journal of Applied Biomedicine, 21(1), 48–57. https://jab.zsf.jcu.cz/artkey/jab-202301-0006_effects-of-oleanolic-acid-on-hair-growth-in-mouse-dorsal-skin-mediated-via-regulation-of-inflammatory-cytokines.php

Zhang, B., Zhang, W., Luo, J., He, J., Zheng, X., Zhu, S., Rong, B., Ai, Y., Zhang, L., & He, T. (2017). β-Catenin is involved in oleanolic acid-dependent promotion of human hair growth. Biochemical and Biophysical Research Communications, 490(3), 686–693. https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0006291X17312743?via%3Dihub