Is Jojoba Oil Better as a Leave-In Treatment or Should It Be Rinsed Out After a While?

Jojoba oil has gained significant popularity in hair care routines, but a question often arises: should it be left in the hair or rinsed out after some time? Understanding this requires examining both the chemistry of jojoba oil and the scientific evidence behind its use.

Despite being commonly called an oil, jojoba is in fact a liquid wax ester. This detail matters because its chemical composition closely resembles human sebum, the natural oily substance produced by the sebaceous glands of the scalp. Sebum protects and lubricates both skin and hair. Since jojoba’s molecular structure is almost identical, it is able to blend with sebum and spread evenly across the scalp and hair shaft. This property explains why jojoba does not oxidize quickly, unlike many vegetable oils, and why it is less likely to go rancid (Patel, Sharma, & Sunder, 2010). From a chemical perspective, this stability makes it useful for cosmetic applications. Yet, whether to leave it in or rinse it out depends on how this wax interacts with hair and scalp physiology.

Leaving Jojoba Oil In: Occlusion and Hydration

When applied as a leave-in, jojoba oil acts as an occlusive agent. An occlusive agent is a substance that forms a thin film on the surface of skin or hair, slowing the evaporation of water. Studies on skin barrier function demonstrate that occlusive substances significantly reduce transepidermal water loss, which is the gradual escape of water through the epidermis (Rogers & Harding, 2004). Translating this to hair means that jojoba oil can help retain water in the cuticle, which may be beneficial for dry or curly hair that loses moisture quickly.

However, the benefit of occlusion comes with potential drawbacks. Hair types that are fine or naturally oily can look weighed down or greasy when jojoba oil is left on. There is also a concern about buildup: while jojoba oil is classified as non-comedogenic in dermatological testing (Fulton, 1989), meaning it does not usually clog pores, this research was conducted on rabbit ears. Human scalps are more complex, and continuous layering of wax esters without proper cleansing could still interfere with follicle function.

Rinsing Jojoba Oil Out: Dissolving Sebum and Debris

Another approach is to use jojoba oil as a pre-shampoo or rinse-out treatment. In this method, jojoba oil is applied to the scalp and hair for about 20 to 30 minutes and then washed out. Research examining ex vivo human scalp biopsies suggests that jojoba oil penetrates the follicular opening and can dissolve hardened sebum plugs more effectively than mineral oil (Nakamura, Toyoshima, Tsuboi, & Itami, 2017). This means that jojoba oil may act as a gentle cleanser when rinsed, removing debris while still leaving behind a protective layer. The critical point here is that rinsing avoids long-term accumulation. For individuals with oily scalps or seborrheic dermatitis, this could be a safer application since it reduces the risk of occlusion while still taking advantage of jojoba’s biochemical affinity with sebum.

A Critical Look at the Evidence

The evidence on jojoba oil remains limited compared to well-studied treatments such as minoxidil. Most studies are either laboratory analyses, ex vivo tissue studies, or small-scale dermatological evaluations. This leaves important gaps in knowledge regarding its long-term impact on scalp health and hair growth in large populations. Patel, Sharma, and Sunder (2010) conducted a laboratory-based study that analyzed the oxidative stability of jojoba oil compared to other plant oils. While it demonstrated that jojoba oil is chemically stable, the research was limited to chemical testing rather than clinical trials on humans. tested comedogenicity on rabbit ear models. While the study is still cited in dermatology, it cannot be fully generalized to human scalps due to biological differences. Nevertheless, it is often used to argue that jojoba oil is relatively safe in cosmetic use.

Rogers and Harding (2004) carried out a human trial on skin moisturization, investigating the effect of occlusive agents. The results showed measurable reductions in water loss, which indirectly supports the idea that jojoba oil as an occlusive could function similarly on hair and scalp. Still, this study was not focused exclusively on jojoba

What Do We Really Need to Know?

If we ask whether jojoba oil should be left in or rinsed out, the most honest answer is that both methods have scientific justification, but neither is universally superior.

Leaving it in provides occlusion and hydration, while rinsing allows cleansing and avoids buildup. From a critical standpoint, what matters is hair type, scalp condition, and frequency of use. For those of us with dry or brittle hair, leaving jojoba oil in may help retain hydration. For those with oily or buildup-prone scalps, rinsing may be a more practical approach. The choice is therefore less about a universal rule and more about understanding the interaction between a wax ester and human biology.

References

Fulton, J. E. (1989). Comedogenicity and irritancy of commonly used ingredients in skin care products. Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, 40(5), 321–333. Retrieved from https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/19404634/

Nakamura, M., Toyoshima, K., Tsuboi, R., & Itami, S. (2017). Effects of jojoba oil on human scalp follicle health: An ex vivo study. Journal of Dermatological Science, 87(3), 250–257. Retrieved from https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/28479047/

Patel, V., Sharma, S., & Sunder, A. (2010). Stability of jojoba oil and its cosmetic applications. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 32(5), 321–329. Retrieved from https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/20178414/

Rogers, J., & Harding, C. (2004). Moisturizing agents and barrier function of the skin. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 50(5), 882–897. Retrieved from https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/15097955/