Is virgin or refined coconut oil better for hair care?

The world of natural hair care is full of promises, but few ingredients have gained the global popularity that coconut oil has If you've found yourself holding two jars—one labeled "virgin" and the other "refined"—and wondering which will actually benefit your hair more, you're not alone. While marketing often pushes both as miracle cures, the real answer depends on what’s inside each jar and how those contents interact with hair and scalp. This article explores the question in depth and responds directly using published scientific studies from verified sources.

What really sets virgin and refined coconut oil apart?

Virgin coconut oil (VCO) is extracted from fresh coconut meat through cold pressing or other mechanical methods that don’t involve chemicals or high heat. As a result, it retains much of the coconut’s natural scent, flavor, and, most importantly, its antioxidant compounds such as polyphenols and vitamin E.

Refined coconut oil, by contrast, is made from dried coconut meat (copra) that is often bleached and deodorized. It undergoes processing to neutralize flavor and smell, and in doing so, it loses a significant portion of the biologically active components that are preserved in the virgin version. Both oils contain lauric acid—a medium-chain fatty acid with a strong affinity to hair proteins—but only the virgin form contains the full range of natural phytochemicals.

Does coconut oil really penetrate the hair shaft?

Yes, and this is not just a rumor. A frequently cited in-vitro study published in 2003 by Rele and Mohile in the Journal of Cosmetic Science showed that coconut oil uniquely penetrates the hair shaft better than mineral oil or sunflower oil. The study was conducted on human hair samples under laboratory conditions, using surface tension and protein loss analysis to determine effectiveness. Coconut oil, thanks to its high lauric acid content and small molecular size, bonded with the hair’s internal proteins and significantly reduced protein loss. However, this study did not distinguish between virgin and refined oils.

So, which oil retains more of the beneficial components?

While both types of coconut oil contain lauric acid, virgin coconut oil stands out due to the retention of antioxidant and antimicrobial compounds. A 2011 study published in the International Journal of Dermatology evaluated the effect of virgin coconut oil on skin barrier repair and found that it improved hydration and reduced trans-epidermal water loss in human subjects with mild to moderate xerosis. This improved skin barrier translates to a healthier scalp, which is essential for hair growth.

A separate 2014 study from the Asian Journal of Pharmaceutical and Clinical Research examined both virgin and refined coconut oils and their antioxidant levels. Researchers found that virgin coconut oil demonstrated significantly higher antioxidant activity due to the presence of polyphenols and tocopherols, which were largely absent in refined oils.

What about antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory benefits?

Virgin coconut oil has also demonstrated antimicrobial effects against bacteria and fungi relevant to scalp health. A 2008 randomized controlled trial by Verallo-Rowell et al., published in Dermatitis, showed that VCO applied to skin reduced colonization by Staphylococcus aureus in subjects with atopic dermatitis. Though this study focused on general skin health, the implications for the scalp—an extension of the skin—are significant, especially for people dealing with dandruff or seborrheic dermatitis. In 2016, a study published in Frontiers in Microbiology tested the antifungal effects of VCO against Malassezia, the yeast associated with dandruff. Using in-vitro fungal cultures and animal models, VCO demonstrated strong antifungal properties, outperforming refined oils that lacked the necessary phenolic compounds. While more studies on human scalps are needed, the research suggests virgin oil has a clear edge for scalp care.

How does coconut oil help with damaged hair?

Chemical treatments, heat styling, and even rough brushing cause structural damage to the hair. A 2015 review in the International Journal of Trichology summarized evidence showing coconut oil, when applied before washing, significantly reduces protein loss. This is due to its ability to penetrate the hair shaft and bind to keratin. Again, most studies used generic coconut oil without specifying the type, but given that processing reduces antioxidant content, virgin oil is logically more beneficial for protecting against oxidative stress caused by environmental exposure and chemicals.

So why is refined coconut oil still marketed for hair care?

The popularity of refined coconut oil in commercial hair products is primarily driven by logistics, not efficacy. Refined oil is cheaper to produce, has a longer shelf life, and lacks the strong coconut scent that some consumers dislike. Its neutral profile makes it easier to formulate with other ingredients. As a result, it’s more attractive for mass-market shampoos, conditioners, and serums. Unfortunately, these benefits are mostly for the manufacturer—not for your hair. Product marketing often fails to distinguish between refined and virgin oils, using general claims like “contains coconut oil” without specifying quality or concentration. This leads consumers to believe all coconut oil–based products are equally effective, which is not supported by science.

Answering the original question: which one is better?

Based on current scientific evidence, virgin coconut oil is clearly the better option for hair care. Its ability to penetrate the hair shaft is matched by refined oil, but virgin oil goes further: it provides antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory benefits that support both scalp and hair health. Though it’s often more expensive and has a more noticeable aroma, its unprocessed nature preserves compounds that are either partially or completely lost during refining.

References

Rele, A. S., & Mohile, R. B. (2003). Effect of mineral oil, sunflower oil, and coconut oil on prevention of hair damage. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 54(2), 175–192. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/12715094/

Verallo-Rowell, V. M., Dillague, K. M., & Syah-Tjundawan, B. S. (2008). Novel antibacterial and emollient effects of coconut and virgin olive oils in adult atopic dermatitis. Dermatitis, 19(6), 308–315. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/19050973/

• Randomized controlled trial on human subjects with eczema.
• Virgin coconut oil significantly reduced S. aureus colonization.

Intahphuak, S., Khonsung, P., & Panthong, A. (2010). Anti-inflammatory, analgesic, and antipyretic activities of virgin coconut oil. Pharmaceutical Biology, 48(2), 151–157. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/20645831/

• Animal study confirming anti-inflammatory effects of VCO.

Nevin, K. G., & Rajamohan, T. (2010). Beneficial effects of virgin coconut oil on lipid parameters and in vitro LDL oxidation. Clinical Biochemistry, 43(9), 718–724. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/20399177

• Study comparing virgin vs. refined oil antioxidant levels.

Int. J. Trichology. (2015). Oil treatment for preventing hair damage. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4387693/