Could nightly oil treatments with centella wake up sleeping follicles?

Hair loss is a common concern affecting both men and women, often raising the question of how to reactivate hair follicles that seem to have "gone to sleep." In this context, many natural ingredients have gained popularity for their supposed stimulating properties, and one of them is Centella asiatica, also known as Gotu kola. But can a nightly application of oil with centella truly awaken inactive hair follicles? This article delves into the available scientific evidence to answer this question clearly and thoroughly.

What are sleeping follicles and when could they be reactivated?

Before exploring centella’s effects, it’s essential to understand what a “sleeping” follicle really means. Hair grows from microscopic structures called hair follicles. These go through cycles that include three main phases:

Anagen phase: this is the active growth phase of hair. It can last from 2 to 7 years. In this stage, the follicle is deeply anchored in the scalp and continuously produces hair.

Catagen phase: this is a brief transition phase lasting a few weeks. The follicle stops actively producing hair and begins to shrink.

*Telogen phase: this is the resting phase. It lasts around 3 to 4 months. Hair doesn’t grow, but it doesn’t immediately fall out either. After this phase, the follicle can re-enter the anagen phase and start a new cycle, or remain inactive for a longer period.

When we talk about “sleeping” follicles, we usually refer to those that remain in the telogen phase for too long or fail to reinitiate the anagen phase. The goal of most treatments is to stimulate the follicle’s environment so it can become active again and resume hair production.

Centella asiatica: miracle plant or unproven promise?

Centella asiatica is a perennial plant traditionally used in Ayurvedic and Chinese medicine to heal wounds, improve circulation, and stimulate collagen production. Its main active compounds include asiaticoside, madecassoside, and asiatic acid — all with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. These qualities have sparked interest in its potential role in hair regeneration.

There are several products on the market containing Centella asiatica extract, especially in the form of serums, scalp massage oils, tonics, and creams. Many of these combine centella with other natural ingredients such as rosemary, caffeine, or peptides, making it difficult to isolate centella’s specific effects. However, its presence in commercial products points to growing acceptance of its potential benefits in alternative hair care.

What does the science say about centella and hair growth?

So far, there is limited scientific research directly focusing on Centella asiatica’s ability to stimulate human hair follicles. However, a clinical trial published in Evidence-Based Complementary and Alternative Medicine in 2017 offers some insight into its potential efficacy.

This study, conducted in 2017, was a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trial. It involved 38 people with diffuse alopecia: 19 received a lotion containing Centella asiatica extract combined with other herbal ingredients, and the other 19 received a placebo. The treatment was applied over six months.

To assess the results, researchers used trichoscopy — a non-invasive digital imaging technique that provides a detailed view of the scalp and allows measurement of hair density and the number of hairs per square centimeter. At the end of the study, the group using the lotion with centella showed a statistically significant improvement in both variables compared to the placebo group.

These findings suggest that Centella asiatica, at least as part of a topical formula, might have positive effects on the hair follicle environment. However, it’s important to note that the study’s formula also included other plant extracts, making it impossible to attribute the benefits solely to centella. Additionally, the sample size was small — just 38 participants — and there was no long-term follow-up to determine if the results persisted.

In summary, while the study lays groundwork for exploring centella’s role in scalp health, current evidence does not confirm that centella alone can reactivate dormant follicles. More extensive research with larger sample sizes, isolated formulas, and long-term evaluation is needed to draw definitive conclusions.

Could applying centella oil each night help?

The logic behind nightly application relies on two factors. First, the body enters a state of cellular regeneration during the night, which could enhance absorption of active ingredients. Second, oils can act as carriers to deliver centella’s active compounds to the hair follicle.

However, it’s crucial to understand that there is no solid scientific evidence proving that applying centella oil at night definitively wakes up dormant follicles. Current studies suggest a potential benefit of certain centella extracts in controlled settings, but we still need clinical research on humans to confirm its real impact on hair growth.

User Experiences

Community feedback on the use of Centella asiatica oil (often combined with other treatments or oils) for hair regrowth or reactivating "sleeping follicles" is sparse but notable. Several users on Tressless have discussed the ingredient within broader regimens, and while no one specifically documented waking up dormant follicles from Centella alone, some indirect reports provide insight.

One relevant post featured a user recovering from transplant-related trauma to the donor area, who included La Roche-Posay’s Cicaplast Baume B5, which contains Centella asiatica, as part of a topical recovery strategy. The user mentioned this was used alongside thermal water, topical antibiotics, minoxidil, and dutasteride. Other community members chimed in with approval for B5 and Centella-based balms, particularly for reducing inflammation and calming irritated or inflamed scalp areas. However, none of the commenters reported Centella reactivating dormant follicles directly—they primarily praised it for its anti-inflammatory and healing properties, particularly useful after trauma like microneedling, scalp infections, or transplants.

Another post mentioned Centella-derived exosomes, which were discussed in the context of regenerative medicine. While a user shared a before-and-after timeline involving exosome treatments over two months, there was no conclusive evidence pointing specifically to Centella-derived versions being more or less effective. The tone of the discussion was cautious optimism, with some skepticism due to the lack of rigorous human trials comparing these treatments to established options like finasteride.

No community member provided photographic evidence or detailed progress showing that nightly oil treatments with Centella alone (such as a massage oil) led to visible reawakening of follicles. The consensus leaned more toward using Centella as supportive care—a way to enhance scalp condition, reduce inflammation, and potentially complement other more powerful regrowth agents like minoxidil, finasteride, or microneedling.

If you're considering nightly oil treatments with Centella, users suggest it's best viewed as a scalp health enhancer rather than a primary growth stimulator. Its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory profile might improve the environment for other active treatments to work more effectively.

So, yes or no?

Answering the original question requires nuance. Can a nightly application of centella oil awaken sleeping follicles? The current evidence does not allow us to state this with certainty. However, clinical studies suggest that centella’s components might help create a more favorable environment for hair growth. Given the absence of serious reported side effects in topical use, it may be considered a complementary — not substitute — option in a broader treatment strategy.

What is clear is that no natural remedy alone replaces a medical evaluation, especially when hair loss is persistent or severe. And while Centella asiatica holds promise, we are still far from being able to confidently claim that nightly applications alone can reawaken sleeping follicles.

References

Farris, P., Zeichner, J., & Berson, D. (2017). Herbal Extract-Based Scalp Treatment Improves Hair Density and Hair Count in Subjects with Androgenetic Alopecia. Evidence-Based Complementary and Alternative Medicine, 2017, Article ID 7607091. https://doi.org/10.1155/2017/7607091

Tressless. (2023, December 21). Huge holes on donor area of scalp is this even normal? Reddit. https://reddit.com/r/tressless/comments/18nvl4b/huge_holes_on_donor_area_of_scalp_is_this_even/

Tressless. (2025, January 22). Exosomes 2 months before and after. Reddit. https://reddit.com/r/tressless/comments/1i7bgzj/exosomes_2_months_before_and_after/